The high level of comfort of a modern person involves the use of a large number of electrical appliances. Therefore, installing sockets in the bathroom is not a whim, but an important necessity.
The selection and installation of power points is carried out in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documents and the rules of the in-house or in-house power supply devices. These provisions have been studied by us and are described in detail in the article.
We will designate the zones acceptable for the installation of outlets, list the rules for laying the electric cable and give tips on choosing electrical appliances. The suggested step-by-step installation instructions will help you to perform all electrical work on your own, without turning to specialists for help.
Why do I need a socket in the bathroom
In old buildings, sockets in bathrooms are extremely rare. The reason for this is the compact footage of the room, the elementary lack of free space on the walls and the weak common electrical network of the apartment.
In addition, until recently it was believed that electric points in bathrooms and toilets should not be installed, so they were carried out and mounted near the doors to the bathroom.
In modern housing, the situation is different: combined with a toilet and separate bathrooms are large, which allows you to freely place in the interior a washing machine, water heater, dryer, additional electric heater, heated towel rail, and a “warm floor” system.
The daily use of a hair dryer, electric shaver, hair curler, etc. remains relevant.
Given the number of appliances that require electricity to operate, an outlet block or 2-3 separate points are mounted in the bathroom
To find out exactly how many outlets are needed for the bathroom, you need to make a list of all devices and among them select those that are constantly on the network.
Assume a washing machine is often installed in a large bathroom. Under it, a separate electrical point is usually allocated or a cable connection is mounted directly, using a terminal block.
According to the rules, the electric point must be located on the left, right or above the device, it is prohibited to install it behind the volume unit. It is necessary to provide easy access so that if the product fails, it can be quickly and easily replaced or repaired.
It is also recommended to allocate separately located sockets for connecting a water heater, storage boiler or heated towel rail - that is, devices that usually work in constant mode
Power Point Installation Requirements
New modifications of electrical devices are designed to be operated in rooms with high humidity. But to them, and to sockets are increased requirements. You can clarify legal information in regulatory documents, for example, in GOST R 50571.11 (1996) and PUE (7.1).
What areas are suitable for installation
As you know, the combination of water and electricity in everyday life is very dangerous for humans. Therefore, the bathroom, where such contact is possible, is usually divided into zones. There are four of them - from 0 to 3.
The diagram shows the electrical safety zones in the bathroom. Of the four zones indicated, only in the most remote zone No. 3 it is allowed to mount sockets or switches (+)
According to the rules, electrical appliances can be placed in any of the zones, but they must comply with the voltage standards, degree of protection, as well as be connected to RCDs in an apartment electrical panel.
We will analyze the capabilities of each zone.
Image Gallery
Photo from
The most dangerous area for the use of household appliances. You can use devices with a voltage of 12 V and a degree of protection IPX7. Do not use extension cords, filters. A hair dryer that accidentally falls into the water with a person in it can cause irreparable tragedy
Not suitable for installation of sockets even of the highest protection class, but it is allowed to mount water heaters - on the wall, above the mixer. The technical description of flowing or storage devices should indicate that they have a degree of protection IPX5-IPX6
It is also not suitable for the installation of sockets, but in this space it is possible to place water heaters, boilers, fans in hoods, lamps (class 2). Degree of protection IPX5 suggests that devices can withstand the ingress of accidental splashes or jets of water
The only zone of those listed in which the installation of sockets, switch boxes, switches, temperature regulators is possible. But there are conditions: IPX4 or IPX5 protection, connection via an automatic machine or RCD, supply of electricity through a transformer
Zone 0 - bath or shower
Zone 1 - Walls adjacent to the bath
Zone 2 - the space around the bath at a distance of 0.6 m
Zone 3 - plot 0.6 m from the bath
If partitions are installed in the bathroom or niches are made to prevent regular water splashes on the body of electrical points, installation requirements are milder. For example, you can do without a safety cover.
At what height should the socket be installed
The height standards at which the installation of outlets in the bathroom or bathroom should be carried out have not changed over half a century: 0.9-1 m from the floor surface.
However, there are no strict rules, therefore, during installation, they are often guided by ease of use. For example, an electric point for a washing machine is usually located below its top cover, on the side of the body.
If a replacement power outlet was required after a recent repair, it is more advisable to leave it at the same height so as not to spoil the fresh finish
In modern reference documentation, you can meet with the standards of height, radically different from previously accepted standards.
When planning apartments in high-rise buildings, choose a height of 40-45 cm from the level of the concrete slab, that is, taking into account the subsequent finishing - 30-35 cm above the finish floor covering.
One of the current schemes with a low location of outlets. This placement is explained by the preservation of the design of the room and the ease of use of electric points
We turn to the requirements of the PUE. It turns out that only the maximum distance of the outlet from the floor covering is indicated there - 1 m. There is no minimum indicated, which means that it can be mounted even in the baseboard. Moreover, if there are children in the family, it is recommended to use special technical devices - with protective curtains.
However, the position at a distance of 0.3 m from the floor and especially in the baseboard is absolutely not suitable for the bathroom. In the places of passage of communications through which water circulates, it is impossible to place the sockets below, because there is always a risk of flooding the room.
You should also adhere to the rules common to all rooms:
- not less than 10 cm - distance to door and window openings;
- not less than 15 cm - distance to the ceiling;
- 90 cm - when installing the socket / switch unit, height from the floor.
We can conclude that the location of the outlet at a distance of 0.5 m to 0.9 m above the level of the finishing floor is optimal. If it is necessary to replace the old outlet, it is better to simply dismantle it and install a new one without changing the place.
Rules for laying the power cable
In new homes, when replacing outlets, the cable is usually not touched, since it fully meets safety standards and is able to withstand the load. If the house is old, then during the repair in the bathroom before installing the sockets, it is better to replace the wires.
Aluminum wiring is considered weak and is not suitable for modern electrical networks, so it must be replaced with alternative copper wires with a cross section of 1.5 mm² or more
To install household appliances - a washing machine, a heater - it is recommended to mount powerful power lines, and in some cases, dedicated electric lines with a separate RCD.
Necessarily require mounting boxes - for the distribution of wires along the lines. If 2 units of sockets are installed in the bathroom, respectively, and 2 junction boxes will be required.
Scheme of the most rational connection. If, instead of mounting boxes, a circuit of parallel connections is used, any violation in the system will immediately destroy all connected lines (+)
Mounting boxes are placed under the ceiling at a distance regulated by the rules, and wires are lowered from them vertically down to the place of installation of the outlet.
The fact is that the location of the cable is not visible behind the lining, so its diagonal placement is strictly prohibited. Any wire outside the “junction box / receptacle box” channel can cause an accident.
At a close distance, that is, directly, the wires can be placed either under the floor covering or over suspended structures - suspended or plasterboard ceilings. But in this case, it is advisable to place the wires inside the protective sleeves (non-metallic). This applies to all types of products: VVGNG, VVG and even NYM.
A few words about the type of wiring. For bathrooms, the most secure is the internal, located in the gates under the lining. The outdoor is also used, but very rarely, as it is typical for bathtubs in wooden houses. You can cover the wires with plastic boxes of non-combustible material.
How to choose a socket for a bathroom
Some devices for bathrooms, kitchens and combined bathrooms cannot be distinguished from ordinary ones - in appearance they look exactly the same. Others have a slightly modified design. However, the main difference is the protection, which can be identified by marking - the IP letter and two digits.
For the bathroom, both digital values are relevant. The first indicates the degree of protection against solid particles and dust, the second - from moisture. Experts recommend devices with markings on both parameters of at least 4, but preferably 5 or 6.
A table with which you can choose the outlet according to the appropriate parameters. Examples of good choices are devices labeled IP55 or IP65 (+)
The socket housing, in the marking of which the numbers 6-8 are found, is sealed and protected even from direct jets of water, however many devices are additionally equipped with covers. An integrated spring prevents accidental opening.
To use the outlet, you must carefully, with some effort, lift the cover up so that the plug contacts can be freely inserted into the holes.
In the process of selection and purchase, as well as after installing the device, it is better to once again verify its integrity: there should be no cracks on the case, and the lid should be tightly adjoined and with force to open
Professional electricians recommend not saving on the purchase of products of well-known brands that serve without repair for years. For example, a lot of good reviews from experts receive waterproof sockets companies: Schneider electric, Gira, Legrand, Berker, ABB, Wessen, Bticino, Makel, Vico.
Step-by-step installation instructions
The process of installing a new outlet or replacing an old one does not take much time, but high-quality installation can be quickly performed only by a professional with a full hand.
If you are doing this for the first time, each step must be thought out in advance, and all actions must be neat and unhurried. We give an example of installing an internal outlet, as it is considered the most complex and time-consuming.
Step 1 - preparing tools and materials
The number of tools directly depends on how voluminous the work will be. If the process of replacing the outlet is part of the overhaul or redecorating, then you need to prepare and “heavy artillery” - a perforator for making a strobe, a drill with crowns.
With a simple replacement, a screwdriver, pliers, nippers and electrical tape are enough.
Image Gallery
Photo from
Tester screwdriver to check the voltage
Special level for electricians
Set of flat and Phillips screwdrivers
Wire cutter
In addition to the listed tools, you need to prepare work clothes, cotton gloves with insulation for wiring and a protective mask or glasses if you need to ditch the walls.
Step 2 - shredding walls for wiring
Creating a gate in a brick, concrete or aerated concrete wall is the most difficult and dirty step during the installation of a socket or switch.
Get ready for the fact that you will have to work in difficult conditions - after the first blows of the punch, a thick cloud of dust will hang in the air. To avoid this, builders connect a vacuum cleaner to the chaser, but home craftsmen prefer to do without it.
Consider with what tool you can make strobes in the walls, as well as in cement screed on the floor, if part of the wiring will pass under the floor covering.
Image Gallery
Photo from
Professional chipper with vacuum cleaner
Circular saw with set of discs
Power drill or drill
Hand tools: hammer and chisel
The drill will come in handy at the end of the strobing, for making a round hole under the socket. To do this, instead of a drill, put on a cylindrical crown of the desired diameter.
After the "dirty" work, it is necessary to do the cleaning - take out the construction waste, wash the room. Dust may interfere with the installation of the outlet.
Step 3 - Install the Socket
It is better to carry out the installation of the socket at the stage when the wall is plastered, but the tile is not yet glued.
When replacing the outlet, it’s a little easier to act, since you don’t need to hammer and punch. It is enough to dismantle the old case, unscrew the fixing screws and remove the socket, which is also better to replace.
Image Gallery
Photo from
Stage 1 - cleaning the installation niche
Stage 2 - Puttying in the outlet
Stage 3 - "planting" of the sapling into place
Stage 4 - cleaning excess solution
Only after 24 hours will it be possible to carry out further work, since the solution should seize and firmly fix the undergrowth.
Step 4 - installation and connection of the outlet
The main stage of the connection is to work with wires, so before starting work, it is necessary to disconnect the power line by turning off the circuit breaker on the apartment electrical panel.
Then you should remove the insulation from the wires and prepare them for connection. To do this, you can use nippers, side cutters or ticks.
To connect the wires to the terminals of the outlet, you need to remove the decorative cover, set aside the mounting screws and find the necessary terminals - opposite each there is a symbol
When connecting, be sure to consider the color marking of the wires.
With its help, it is much easier to determine the purpose of each branch:
- phase - white color of isolation;
- zero - blue, blue;
- grounding - yellow green or green.
We fasten the wires in the terminal blocks and carefully lay them inside the box, trying not to squeeze or bend. Then we insert the case and tighten the fixing screws. Lastly, we put on a decorative bar.
After installation, we will definitely test - apply current to the line and check the voltage in the network with an indicator screwdriver or a multimeter. If everything is in order, we finish the wall cladding or put in order the area near the electric point.
The process of mounting an overhead outlet is much easier. It is usually installed with external wiring, that is, you do not need to ditch the walls and mount the internal socket.Before installation, the case is disassembled in the same way and the wires are connected.
Useful tips for wiring in the bathroom
Before installing large and powerful equipment, you need to think about whether a socket is needed to connect. Suppose, for the operation of a boiler with a power of 3.5-5.5 kW, which operates in a constant mode, it is better to use not a conventional power outlet, but a direct connection with a separate machine.
To protect electric points from water when bathing, they can be placed in niches, behind partitions and even in cabinets
If a sink with a countertop is installed in the bathroom, then you can consider an interesting and convenient solution with a hidden module. The outlet block is hidden in the table, and only the element comes out, for which it can easily be pulled out.
The main advantage of the retractable module is absolute protection against water, but subject to timely masking.
The line going to the bath room must be equipped with an RCD, and each powerful device with a separate circuit breaker. So, if one device breaks down, the rest of the lines will work as usual.
Remote and extendable “columns” and “books” are actively used in offices and kitchens, however, they are also suitable for equipping a bathroom
What difficulties you may encounter when installing electric dots in the bathroom and how to deal with them, you will learn from the videos presented.
Video with comments on the installation of the outlet:
About the nuances of working with tiles:
Professional installation of the block of sockets on the tile:
Mounting an overhead outlet:
Electrical work requires a certain skill and safety precautions. However, home craftsmen can easily cope with activities such as replacing and installing sockets and switches.
If you still have difficulties or require work of increased complexity, it is better to contact a professional electrician.
Do you have personal experience installing a wall outlet in the bathroom? Want to share your knowledge or ask questions about the topic? Please leave comments and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.